Find a safe, quiet area with a good road surface to practise. Concentrate on keeping the brake pressure consistent as you blip the throttle, or at least hold the throttle constant. Do not blip the throttle during a panic or emergency stop. Use all four fingers to pull the front brake as you were taught by your trainer.
Interesting article as usual Mark. I think there is another relevant factor in blipping technique — the type of grip. In general riding I sometimes find my gloves momentarily sticking to the grips despite my attention to cleaning the grips before riding. With that in mind I test blipping ease on all bikes I sit on. Not that I have tested many bikes. Even that option is rapidly disappearing with the predominance of auto boxes.
Similarly electric bikes will spell the end for all these reasons for blipping you mention. At least I have the unforgettable memory of near Harleys passing close to my home and blipping down to stop at the light and then accelerating off. Ah bliss! Can only imagine what it would be like passing through a tunnel on the opposite side.
Well done Mark. Always enjoy your articles. I use Cramp Busters on both grips which aids in easing hand fatigue on long rides but also makes blipping very easy while 4 finger braking as you use the heel of your palm for throttle control.
Rev matching on down changes is also mechanically sympathetic. Bring engine revs up when clutch is in prior to shifting gear and the gear speeds in the gearbox are better matched, reducing wear on the dogs. As i understand it roughly, the idea is when you downsfift, you blip the throttle like press the throttle a bit?
Is that it? Anyway, i haven't played LFS with manual clutch yet, so i don't know can this be used with auto clutch and how..? What are true advantages of throttle blip, and how to do it properly? I am not too familiar with all of the advanced racing techniques but i want to be.. Blipping the throttle for downshifts makes for a smoother shift. Downshifting without blipping can result in the driven wheels losing traction as the engine and wheels fight against each other. When you downshift normally, the revs drop and the flywheel spins slower than the clutch, often significantly slower depending upon how long it takes you to shift.
Then when you let the clutch out, the flywheel and clutch attempt to match their speeds. The engine resists because the throttle is zero so it just wants to slow down more, and the driven wheels resist because the car has a significant amount of momentum. Most often, you might get a sudden jolt in the car and the revs jump up to the proper level. However, in racing conditions, it is quite possible that the negative force exerted by the engine upon the wheels is enough to break traction.
Depending upon how high the reciprocating mass in the engine is, this could be for a very long time. However, since the engine is always spinning, the wheels never completely lock up. Once the engine reaches the proper revs, the wheels regain traction. By blipping the throttle on downshift, this can all be avoided.
As soon as the clutch is let out, the flywheel and clutch are already spinning at the same speed. Even blipping a little too much is much better than too little, as it's much easier for the engine to slow down than speed up when there is no throttle. I personally leave all helps off except for autoclutch and also use my right foot for braking.
This usually means I have to be very careful about how I time my downshifts so I don't skid too much, but I'm used to it. Well said. It is more of a problem for rear wheel drive cars where locking the rear wheels on the approach to a corner is the last thing you want to do. Good post. This change of engine speed can either be done the "easy" way by using the throttle or the "hard" way by making the tyres transfer braking forces all the way through the drivetrain to speed up the engine.
The disadvantage of the second method is of course the unwanted braking effect and the unnecessary load to drivetrain and engine. In LFS many of the fast drivers actually do like to use the engine for braking machine-gun-downshifting seems to shorten braking distance but I've never looked at any RAF data to find out why. Wild guess: they are keeping the brake balance setting further forward for trail-braking stability and then making up for the missing rear braking power by using the gearbox.
Damn it.. So i am going like from 3rd gear, aproaching the corner, and before changing down to 2nd, i first brake, then let go off the brake, press the clutch, tap the throttle a bit, and then release the clutch??
Is that the right order? Yes, except you shouldn't let go off the brakes. You should be finished with downshifting by the time you come off the brakes.
Quote from Boris Lozac : Damn it.. This is where throttle blipping comes in. But, throttle blipping is best heard when a sport bike is decelerating and downshifting and usually braking from high RPM and high speed. Listen at the end of the straight starting at See For comparison, I enter the same corner, but without blipping at The throttle blipping technique is done by quickly cracking the throttle open then closed blip while you simultaneously squeeze the clutch and click the gearshift lever.
The point is to get engine RPM matched to the lower gear ratio before you release the clutch. The rapid blipping technique occurs within the span of about one-half second. The clutch is quickly squeezed and released as the transmission is shifted down and the right hand blips the throttle. This is repeated with every downshift, one gear at a time.
You can blip the throttle rapidly to reduce the time between gears, or you can be leisurely. High-performance riders blip the throttle very quickly when downshifting between gears as they set up for a corner. Street riders may choose to blip the throttle when downshifting. This is done more slowly when coming to a stop. Oftentimes, you need to brake while downshifting, but trying to simultaneously brake while blipping is a difficult skill to master.
The problem is that moving the right hand to blip also causes the braking fingers to move, which invariably changes brake pressure. Combining braking and throttle blipping can be done with less difficulty if you apply the front brake with your index and middle fingers while you close and open the throttle with your thumb and two outside fingers. Arching your brake fingers is also helpful in isolating throttle movements.
The point is to blip the throttle while keeping consistent brake lever pressure. This is most easily done when using very firm braking pressure , like when braking hard from high speeds where brake lever movements translate into relatively minor brake force changes.
Nowadays, you can get a motorcycle that will allow you to shift up and down without using the clutch. Pretty slick. Some motorcycles benefit from throttle blipping more than others.
Still, a lot of riders swear by throttle blipping. Listen to my downshifts at the end of the long straightaway in this video from a recent track day, starting at and then throughout the video. You can hear how I simply downshift and then ease out the clutch. One problem with throttle blipping is that it minimizes the stabilizing effect that comes from engine braking.
Let me explain. Think bungie cord. This pulls the rear of the bike in line with the front. Blipping the throttle during downshifts minimizes engine braking compared to simply easing out the clutch. Sit on your stationary bike with the engine idling and in neutral. Blip the throttle quickly like a spasm so the engine revs to 1, RPM. Next, simultaneously squeeze the clutch just as quickly as the throttle.
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